Fashion’s ever-spinning wheel has turned once again. This morning, in a move that has set the industry abuzz, Haider Ackermann was announced as the new creative director of Tom Ford. The appointment, effective immediately, marks the beginning of an exciting new chapter for the iconic brand. As Ackermann himself put it in a statement today: “It is with tremendous pride that I will see to honor the legacy of Tom Ford, a man I have long admired and have the utmost respect for”. Those words reflect the gravity of the moment, as Ackermann steps into the house that Ford built – one of the most revered names in modern luxury.
“I have long been a great fan of Haider’s work. His tailoring is sharp, and above all, he is modern”.
For the fashion world, this appointment is nothing short of a seismic shift. Ackerman, born in Bogota, Colombia, and adopted by a French family, has long been known for his poetic sensibility and a vision that fuses sensuality with strict precision. His unique voice will now guide the brand’s entire creative output – from the famously sleek womenswear and sharp menswear to accessories and eyewear. But more than that, Ackermann will define the creative future of a brand that has come to symbolize power, sex appeal, and unapologetic glamour.
Tom Ford’s exit from his namesake brand in 2023 was both graceful and significant, following its $2.3 billion acquisition by The Estée Lauder Companies Inc. (ELC). Since then, the fashion house has been in a period of transition. But now, with Ackermann at the helm, the mood has shifted. The industry is brimming with anticipation, and Paris Fashion Week in March 2025 – where Ackermann’s debut collection will be unveiled – can’t come soon enough.
The Meeting of Minds. In many ways, Ackermann’s arrival at Tom Ford feels predestined. Few designers can claim to have the aesthetic rigor and emotional depth that define both their work and Tom Ford’s oeuvre. In today’s statement, Tom Ford himself offered warm words of welcome, saying: “I have long been a great fan of Haider’s work. His tailoring is sharp, and above all, he is modern”. It’s a rare endorsement from a man known for his exacting standards, and one that further cements Ackermann’s place in the pantheon of modern fashion masters.
The parallels between the two designers are striking. Ackermann, much like Ford, possesses an innate understanding of sensuality – a key element that has defined the Tom Ford brand since its inception in 2005. His silhouettes have always hugged the body in ways that evoke both power and vulnerability. His color palette, often dominated by rich, moody tones, speaks to a similarly heightened sense of drama. And while Ackermann’s designs carry a more architectural sensibility, it’s easy to see how his creative vocabulary will fuse effortlessly with the codes Ford established.
An Unexpected Evolution. What sets Ackermann apart is his ability to straddle the line between emotional depth and technical prowess. His nearly two-decade run with his eponymous label, which he paused in 2020, revealed a designer capable of crafting garments that feel deeply personal yet universally resonant. He’s an artist who doesn’t just create clothes – he creates world. His stint at Berluti, the LVMH-owned menswear brand, was a testament to his ability to navigate the world of luxury with a deft hand, while his recent collaborations, including a couture cameo for Jean Paul Gaultier, have only enhanced his reputation as a true visionary.
At Tom Ford, Ackermann will have the space to expand upon that vision. His role, which includes overseeing all aspects of the fashion output, is more than just about maintaining the status quo. It’s about evolution. As Guillaume Jesel, president and CEO of Tom Ford at ELC, said in today’s announcement: “Haider is one of the world’s most visionary and inspiring talents in fashion. He draws on his deep affinity for global culture and the arts to create arresting fashion and memorable emotional connections”.
Indeed, Ackermann’s global perspective is one of his most valuable assets. Born in Colombia, raised in various countries including Ethiopia, Chad, and Algeria, and now based in Paris, his multicultural upbringing informs everything he does. It gives his work a sense of depth that feels both intensely personal and refreshingly cosmopolitan.
Hollywood’s Designer. Then there’s the Hollywood connection – a cornerstone of the Tom Ford empire. Ford, who famously dressed everyone from Gwyneth Paltrow to Julianne Moore, left an indelible mark on the intersection of fashion and film. Ackermann, with his own cadre of star-studded admirers, seems ready to step into those glamorous shoes. His close relationships with Tilda Swinton and Timothee Chalamet are well-documented, and his designs have graced countless red carpets. It’s no stretch to imagine Ackermann dressing the world’s most stylish stars, adding a new layer of mystique to the Tom Ford brand.
What’s more, Ackermann has long understood the performative nature of fashion. His runway shows are not just presentations – they are emotional experiences. With Ford’s legacy of theatrical shows that ooze sex appeal sophistication, we can expect Ackermann to bring his own poetic vision to the runway. His first collection, set to debut in Paris in 2025, is already poised to be one of the most talked-about moment of the year.
A Strategic Pivot. For Ermenegildo Zegna Group, which now controls the Tom Ford fashion business, Ackermann’s appointment is also a strategic move. Zegna, which aims to grow the brand’s womenswear division (currently accounting for 30% of Tom Ford’s fashion revenues), sees Ackermann as the ideal candidate to drive that expansion. His expertise in womenswear is well-known, and his ability to balance elegance with an avant-garde edge could be exactly what Tom Fords needs to elevate its female clientele.
In a statement shared with Vogues Business, Gilda Zegna, chairman and CEO of the Ermenegildo Zegna Group, noted: “The appointment of Haider as the brand’s new creative director will further strengthen the team we are building and makes me even more confident in the future of Tom Ford Fashion”.
Ackermann’s trajectory has always been about more than just clothes – it’s about a deeply felt artistic sensibility. His departure from his namesake label in 2020 left the fashion world bereft, but his time away has only sharpened his creative edge. Recent collaborations with Maison Ullenes, Fila, and Canada Goose have shown that Ackermann isn’t afraid to push boundaries, and now, with the full weight of the Tom Ford brand behind him, he has the opportunity to redefine what modern luxury can be.
The Road Ahead. As we look to the future of Tom Ford under Ackermann’s direction, one thins is clear: this is not merely a passing of the torch – it’s a reinvention. Ackermann’s debut collection in Paris is already one of the most Anticipated moments on the fashion calendar, and the world will be watching closely. How will he reinterpreted Ford’s codes? How will he fuse his architectural precision with the brand’s iconic sensuality? Whatever the answers may be, we can be sure that Ackermann will bring a fresh, dynamic perspective to one of fashion’s most beloved houses.
And if Tom Ford himself is already requesting a front-row seat at Ackermann’s first show, we know it’s bound to be a moment for the history books.
As Ackermann prepares to write the next chapter of Tom Ford, one thing is certain: the future of this brand is in very, very good hands.
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