In a significant move poised to reshape the trajectory of Blumarine, London-based Georgian designer David Koma has been appointed as the brand's new creative director. This announcement comes on the heels of Walter Chiapponi's swift exit in March after a single season at the helm. Koma’s first collection for Blumarine, the pre-fall 2025 line, is set to debut in May/June next year, signaling a fresh and exciting era for the Italian fashion house.
“David Koma’s aesthetic captured me from the beginning. I am sure that David will be able to interpret Blumarine’s codes to perfection, thanks to his vision and stylistic sensitivity, characterized by an overwhelming femininity”
David Koma, renowned for his striking red carpet occasionwear, launched his eponymous fashion house in London in 2009. Over the years, he has cultivated a robust client base drawn to his sculptural and bold silhouettes, which have become his signature style. His designs, often seen gracing celebrities at high-profile events, are celebrated for their elegance, modernity, and unmistakable femininity.
“David Koma’s aesthetic captured me from the beginning. I am sure that David will be able to interpret Blumarine’s codes to perfection, thanks to his vision and stylistic sensitivity, characterized by an overwhelming femininity,” remarked Marco Marchi, sole director of Exelite, the holding company that owns Blumarine, in a statement. This endorsement from Marchi underscores the confidence placed in Koma’s ability to steer Blumarine towards a new creative horizon.
Blumarine’s recent history has been marked by notable shifts. From 2019 to 2023, the brand experienced a revival under Nicola Brognano, who introduced a Y2K aesthetic that resonated widely, featuring iconic pieces like the butterfly camisole, low-slung denim, and metallics. However, following Brognano’s departure in October 2023, Chiapponi was brought on board with a vision to transition Blumarine to a more mature and classic style. Despite his efforts, Chiapponi’s romantic collection was criticized for its lack of cohesion, leaving the brand in need of a unifying and visionary direction.
Koma’s appointment is expected to bring a return to Blumarine’s high-octane glamour, a characteristic that endeared the brand to its followers during Brognano’s tenure. However, Koma’s touch is likely to infuse this glamour with an elegant and sophisticated twist, aligning with his established design ethos. His vision for Blumarine promises to honor the brand’s rich heritage while integrating modern, innovative elements that will captivate contemporary audiences.
“Blumarine embodies a unique blend of sensuality, timeless glamour, and elegance that I always admire, and it is an honor to be able to write the next chapter in the brand’s illustrious history,” Koma said in a statement. “I am excited to celebrate Blumarine’s rich creative heritage while infusing it with my own modern vision. The brand’s feminine aesthetic deeply resonates with me, making this journey feel incredibly authentic. I am eager to craft collections that inspire and captivate our audience, ushering in an exciting new era of innovation and creativity at this esteemed house.”
Koma’s tenure as creative director is poised to rejuvenate Blumarine, aligning its storied past with a forward-looking vision that blends sensuality, elegance, and modernity. The fashion world eagerly anticipates his first collection, which is expected to set a new benchmark for Blumarine’s future. As the brand embarks on this new chapter, the collaboration between Koma and Blumarine promises to deliver a compelling narrative of style and sophistication.
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